TrailsLatest
Walking the Annapurna Circuit, Slowly
Eighteen days, one pair of boots, and the growing suspicion that the point was never the pass at all.
Annapurna, NepalTravelled 11 min read
Editors’ picks
Lisbon in the Blue Hour
Lisbon, PortugalTravelled 7 min
Hokkaidō: Powder, Patience, and Very Good Ramen
Hokkaidō, JapanTravelled 9 min
Latest dispatches
Fresh from the notebook, newest first.
Cities
One Night at Angkor, Five in Vietnam
Two countries and six nights: temples before the light, a Hoi An that rained, and a beach with a fishing fleet on it and almost nobody else.
Cambodia and VietnamTravelled 10 min read
Water
Pune to Gokarna by Road, With a Night in the Jungle
Seven days, four of us and one car: a night on the Kali river, four on Gokarna's beaches, and the best fish of the trip on the way home.
Pune to Gokarna, IndiaTravelled 9 min read
Wild
Iceland's Ring Road by Camper, Hot Spring to Hot Spring
Thirteen nights, three of us, one camper van, and a route planned entirely around where you can next get warm.
Ring Road, IcelandTravelled 12 min read
Wild
The Atacama Sky Is a Different Sky
On stargazing in the driest desert on earth, and why your eyes need forty minutes before they are honest.
San Pedro de Atacama, ChileTravelled 8 min read
Water
The Kerala Backwaters, By Canoe Instead
Skip the houseboat. A dugout canoe gets into the narrow channels where the actual village life happens.
Alleppey, IndiaTravelled 6 min read
Wild
How to Plan a Faroe Islands Trip Around Weather You Cannot Predict
Four seasons in an afternoon, eighteen islands, and a scheduling strategy built entirely on flexibility.
Faroe IslandsTravelled 10 min read
Food
Oaxaca Market Mornings
How to eat your way through Mercado 20 de Noviembre without ordering the same thing four times.
Oaxaca, MexicoTravelled 7 min read
Trails
Hut to Hut in the Dolomites, With No Tent
Six days across the Alta Via 1 carrying nine kilos, because someone else is cooking dinner.
Dolomites, ItalyTravelled 9 min read
Cities
Kyoto Without the Crowds Is Just a Question of Hours
The temples are not overrun. They are overrun between ten and four. Here is the other Kyoto.
Kyoto, JapanTravelled 6 min read